When servicing your bike, it is always best practice to use the highest quality parts where possible. Thankfully, these days there are many high quality brands out there such as Hiflo and Champion to help provide peace of mind with top quality parts at a respectable and affordable cost.
With that being said, should you own a vehicle which still has manufacturer’s warranty remaining on it, we do recommend that genuine parts are used to uphold this warranty and in most cases, this is approved by the majority of manufacturers.
Have a flick through your bike’s workshop manual to see if any bodywork panels need to be removed prior to starting the job. You will need to gain access to the sump plug, which is located at the very bottom of the engine, and the oil filter which is often found at the front of the engine behind the exhaust downpipes.
If your machine doesn’t have a centrestand, use paddock stands front and rear to hold the bike upright and make sure it is completely level. Place a drain tray under the sump plug and have some paper towel on hand to catch any spillage. It’s a good idea to start this job when the engine is warm to allow the oil to flow more easily.
With your drain tray in position under the bike. Locate the sump plug, crack it to release and then undo by a couple of turns with the ratchet before removing completely by hand. As the plug is on the last thread remove it sideways so as not to disrupt the flow of oil. Make sure the oil is flowing directly into the centre of the tray.
While the oil is draining give the sump plug a wipe with paper towel. Depending on what bike you’re working on there can be up to four litres of oil to drain off. Almost all of it is in the sump and drains out very quickly. When the main body of this oil has drained away there will be a steady trickle, allow all of this to drain away.
Move the drain tray so is under the filter but also still positioned beneath the sump to catch any stray drops. Undo the filter using a filter wrench or suitable tool. Often they can be quite tight so make sure you are able to gain good leverage on it. Once it has been undone a turn or two you can remove it by hand.
Remove the washer from the sump plug, sometimes they need prising off with a screwdriver. The washer acts as a gasket so collapses when tightened. Wipe the sump and clean away any traces of oil with paper towel. Refit a new washer to the sump plug and install, tighten and torque to the correct setting.
Use some paper towel to clean the area of the engine where the oil filter locates. Take particular care of the flat surface where the filter ‘O’ ring seats. Lightly oil or grease the ‘O’ ring on the new filter and install. Tighten the filter up by hand, and then tighten up another half to three-quarters of a turn with a wrench.
Check in your bike’s manual for the exact type and volume of oil needed for an oil and filter change. There are different amounts of oil required depending on whether the engine has been disassembled and rebuilt or just an oil and filter change as part of regular servicing. Pour it in through the filler cap using a funnel to make the job quicker and less messy.
Replace the filler cap and run the engine for a few minutes. Wait a short while and take the bike off its paddock stand so that both wheels are on the ground, as this will give a more accurate reading than if the bike is on stands. Check the oil level through the sight glass or dipstick in accordance with the manual. Top up as necessary, check for leaks then replace panels.
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